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The San Diego Union-Tribune

 
ON WINE    ROBERT WHITLEY
How to get the best from every bottle

October 1, 2008

Whether you've spent $8 or $80 on a bottle of wine, you probably have high hopes for the tasting experience. There is no doubt you can score a delicious wine at either price point, but merely choosing the right wine does not guarantee you will wring every drop of pleasure from it.

Maximizing the potential of any wine, no matter the cost or the rating, requires some thought and a little attention to detail.

Think of it this way: You can buy a delicious heirloom tomato at the farmers market and serve it unadorned and have a wonderful taste sensation. Or you can sprinkle it with salt, drizzle a few drops of aged balsamic vinegar, dress it with a sprig of fresh basil and take that already tasty tomato to another level.

So it is with wine. Enhancing the experience and getting the most for your money from any bottle of wine is as easy as 1-2-3. My humble suggestions:

1. Use a good glass. If you're going to make the effort to serve an interesting wine, do yourself a favor and use a glass that will enhance the aroma, flavor and texture. The glass should have a thin rim and a bowl that's large enough for you to swirl the wine (which allows the wine to breathe and brings out aroma) without splashing.

Some experts believe that whites and reds should be served in different sized glasses (usually a much rounder shape for reds), but utility and storage limitations may dictate a one-size-fits-all approach. In that case, I would recommend a 15-ounce stem with a wide body and narrow mouth. Stemware can be expensive, but that doesn't have to be the case. Riedel and Spiegelau, two of the best-known manufacturers, produce functional stemware that's durable enough for the dishwasher and modestly priced.

2. Always decant. I know, decanting appears to be a stuffy ritual, but the reality is that decanting is easy and practical. Easy because you can decant into any glass container large enough to hold the contents of a 750-milliliter bottle of wine, plus a bit of room for the wine to breathe. Practical because air brings out the fullest expression of aroma in any wine, red or white.

Ever notice that a wine seems to taste better once you have downed more than half the bottle? It's the air that has softened those harsh tannins and sweetened up the fruit. As for the type of decanter, they come in all sorts of shapes over a range of prices. My wife purchased an attractive but simple Riedel decanter at Target last Christmas. I use it almost every day.

3. Season your glassware. Most of us take our clean stemware out of a cabinet and immediately serve wine in the un-rinsed glass, which may have picked up off aromas from the kitchen or even particles of dust. Some might be sensitive to that possibility and rinse with tap water before serving, but mixing water and wine doesn't achieve the optimum result.

A little trick I learned on my travels to Italy is both ingenious and a bit of fun. I season the glasses with the wine I'm about to serve. Let's say you have glasses out for four people. Pour a small amount of wine into the first glass and swirl until the inside of the bowl is thoroughly coated. Then pour that wine into the next glass and repeat the process. Then on to the third glass and the fourth. Dump the leftover wine from the glass into a dump bucket or down the sink. You can season a decanter in the same manner.

Tasting Notes

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value.

BEST BUY: Swanson 2007 Pinot Grigio, Napa Valley ($21): Swanson's pinot grigio comes as close as any domestic to the classic pinot grigios of Italy's northern Friuli and Alto Adige regions. What impresses is the intensity of the lime-blossom aroma and the persistence of flavor on the palate. What's missing is the suave texture possessed by the best Italian pinot grigios. Still, it's a good drink even if it's a bit pricey for a Cal-Ital interpretation of this popular Italian grape.

Rating: 89

Vina Robles 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles ($19): Forward and supple, this latest vintage from Vina Robles is typical of Paso, showing lovely soft red fruit and an alluring floral characteristic. Cabs of this ilk from Paso Robles have an uncanny ability to age despite the appearance they are built for the short haul. That said, it's good to go as soon as you might be moved to open it.

Rating: 88

Clos Pegase 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($38): Although this Clos Pegase cab comes across a bit hot, for the money it is a good value in Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon. The bouquet is loaded with ripe cassis and blackberry aromas, with a hint of root-cellar earthiness and spice. On the palate it is rich and viscous, and though it is slightly sweet to my taste, it doesn't come off jammy or raisined. For those who like ripe Napa cabs, know you don't have to spend $125 to get one.

Rating: 88

Franciscan 2007 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley ($17): More delicate than many Napa Valley sauvignon blancs, Franciscan's latest release nevertheless delivers exceptional aromas of peach and white flowers with a mild citrus backnote. The flavors carry the length of the palate and finish cleanly. Perfect as an Indian summer quaffer or with savory appetizers.

Rating: 87


Visit Robert Whitley on the Web at whitleyonwine.com; send e-mail to whitleyonwine@yahoo.com.

© Creators Syndicate, Inc.

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