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The San Diego Union-Tribune

 
SLICE OF HISTORY    ARLYN HACKETT
Readers have a beef with 'green' recipe

October 1, 2008

I wrote an article on the “green kitchen” that appeared Sept. 18. I received a number of favorable responses from readers, but some asked why I included a recipe for beef in an article on a green lifestyle.

Those who believe going green means giving up beef will quickly point out that beef production requires eight times more fossil-fuel energy than plant production and 80 to 100 times more water. Overall, feeding animals requires five times more land than is required for growing plant protein for humans.

Some see vegetarianism as the answer. Others will argue that farming practices indeed need to change to improve the environment, but that we do not need to eliminate animals as a source of food.

Reduction of animal consumption is seen as the key by many. Dairy products are at the center of the debate. I have read numerous studies with varying conclusions about the merits of dairy products. My position is that dairy may not be essential, but it is certainly beneficial to many people.

Accepting dairy products deeply affects how we view meat. For us to get milk, a cow must give birth to a calf. About half of those calves are males. If we don't eat meat, what do we do with the male cattle? Should we consider consuming beef only from dairy herds?

The green movement often advocates people eat chicken instead of beef because it requires fewer resources to produce. This leads me to an explanation of why I included a recipe with low-fat, inexpensive beef in the article. I was focusing on energy-conserving practices that are the most accessible and affordable. When you compare an ounce of protein from beef and an ounce of protein from chicken, frequently you can find beef that is cheaper.

But how is it that a product that uses fewer resources is just as expensive? I appreciate responses and dialogue with readers.

Today is World Vegetarian Day, and I offer a green (and this time I'm talking about color) vegetarian soup recipe that can be served hot or cold.

Green Gazpacho

4 servings

1 pound fresh tomatillos (or green tomatoes), husked and coarsely chopped

1 large fresh poblano chili, halved and seeded

1 large fresh jalapeño chili, halved and seeded

1 white or yellow onion, skin removed and coarsely chopped

1 small green apple, cored and cut into eight slices

2 cloves garlic, peeled

Water

1 slice dry French bread

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup fresh cilantro leaves

1 tablespoon lime juice

1 teaspoon ground coriander seed

Salt and pepper, to taste

Yogurt or sour cream, optional

Heat the broiler. Place the tomatillos, poblano, jalapeño, onion, apple and garlic on a baking sheet. Place under broiler and cook until a few charred spots appear. Transfer to a blender with 1/2 cup water and puree until nearly smooth. Add bread, olive oil, lime juice and coriander seed, and puree until smooth. Taste and add salt, pepper and more lime juice as needed. Add more water as desired to create a consistency similar to heavy cream. Serve chilled or heat and serve warm. If desired, garnish each bowl with a small dollop of yogurt or sour cream.


Arlyn Hackett is a cookbook author and food historian. He welcomes e-mail at chefarlyn@cox.net

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